From Coca’s lake, following the signs to Bocchetta del Camoscio, you rise up to a scree that leads you to a big rock you have to pass through. Help yourself with your hands and take care; once you have passed this stone, just walk on the well-marked path, which begins to go up on a grassy ridge to Bocchetta del Polledrino. After 1.30h from the pond, you can reach the colorful remote assistance’s column by Soccorso Alpino, near Bocchetta del Polledrino (8760 ft), from which you can see Rifugio Coca. Now go through a large and, often, snow-covered valley, to reach the top of the nozzle (8920,6 ft). Here the path splits in two: one down to Valmorta Canal to the eponymous lake and Rifugio Curò, one go straight, marked with red stamps on stone, toward the cusp of Coca lace. Go up through the rocky gully (I grade UIAA, depending on period) and after this we have to choose between two paths; even if both lead to the summit, hikers less experienced better follow the left channel, most likely it continues along the southeast ridge (delicate passage in presence of snow, on a I+ grade UIAA slab near next snowy channel from Valmorta), well marked to the peak (Pizzo di Coca, 10006,6 ft; iron cross and summit guestbook). After we leave the first canal beneath Bocchetta is possible, instead of going through the deep left channel, keep right and cross, following a few red markers on rocks, to reach a vertical chimney. Go up (II grade UIAA – please pay attention on rolling stones), it will join to the traditional path (variants indicated on a rock as “difficult”).
Until the final ramp and under Passo di Coca follow its route; about 80 meters from Passo di Coca turn left to a canal of broken rocks to be climbed until its summit, with easy steps on the rocks (I / I + grade UIAA – pay attention on rolling stones). Out of the canal you are on Cresta di Porola, easy but a little bit airy (westwards), up to overcome a smooth slab pitched northwards, through an easy narrow horizontal ledge; well this step lead you to the hill at the base of the final shoulder. Follow the marked trail and the stone-men, then go right and up a steep canal (careful not to go too right), until you reach a narrow fork just next to the Northern Bocchetta di Porola (separating the Porola from Cima Lupo). Keep left following path and stone-men and carefully climb the last slope of rocks / gravel / snow (attention, crampons until mid-summer may be necessary depending on snow conditions) leading to the final summit ridge and to the great-looking panorama.
From Passo di Coca, with a beautiful view of Bacino del Lupo, start on the ridge rocks on the right, going up with an easy climbing; after a while, the ridge flattens enough, allowing you to gain height through a smoother path until the point below Punta Isabella. Leaving aside the climb and follow the traces crossing to the west side of that shoulder first on flat ground, then with a slight ascent, resuming the slightly exposed ridge, under the grim and gloomy tower of Dente di Coca. Continue for flat and easy ridge (pay attention on costant exposure) touching some rocky teeth, that are easily overcomed, although with caution, on the side of Coca (Arigna is impracticable). Shortly you touch the first rocks of NW corner, which rises steeply towards the summit. You should see a stamp with a little man, that indicates to proceede on right through the evident track, until you reach the base of the gully/ramp to climb. The best way, through rotten rocks and boulders, should be signaled with faded and hard-to-see stamps, so pay attention. However, go up to the gully (II grade everywhere) holding first the right, then the left, when it shrinks at the evident exit, winning the last exposed passage on solid rocks (attention that something is moving anyway!) with fairly easily holds (II + grade, exposed, along the ascent you found 4 stopover (nail + lanyard) in good condition and reliable, definitely recommended for double downhill).
You are on the summit ledge encircling the top; follow it on right then go through on the wire of the final ridge, very exposed, which shortly deliver to the summit, extremely aerial and “uncomfortable” (2924m-ruined cross). The small cross, very ancient, remember the two brothers Maffina, fallen on northern face of Pizzo Coca, and a plaque was placed in memory of Erminio Titta and Luciano Moraschini, dead coming down from Dente di Coca in May 1990. On descent follows the same way, using the stops of about 25m each. The last stretch over the attack must be done climbing down a rock that requires attention.
From Rifugio Coca climb the marked diagonal towards Coca pond; from the lake start three paths: one (left) to Rifugio Brunone through Passo del Simal (Sentiero delle Orobie), one towards Passo del Coca and one (on the right) towards Bocchetta del Camoscio and Pizzo Coca. Follow faded marks and skirt the lake on the right, then cross the wide plateau of Conca dei Giganti, strewn with large boulders. The path becomes less clear and distinguishable, leading to a boulder with concrete gravestone, then point the descending scree slope from Passo di Coca. Once on foot of the canal, you’ll lose trail and the trail markers, due to continuous landslides; go up through a snowfield then you’ll find CAI red signs on stone, henceforth evident. Reach the top of the scree, less than a hundred meters below the pass. Here the gravel stops and shrinks like a gully; climb the broken rocks on right (sign) and reach Passo di Coca. (8838,58 ft)
From the lake take the left path to Rifugio Brunone (Sentiero delle Orobie) that. with some hairpin bends. leads to a beautiful grassy hollow beneath the eastern wall of Pizzo Redorta. Then go south, over the descending ridge from Cima Avert, and follow the stretched path equipped with chains and the trail signs and traces. Now some ups and downs at the base of a rocky gravel canal: rise it up to Forcellino di Val Foga, with a beautiful view on Passo del Simal, that you’re going to reach. Rising through rocks on the right you can tap quickly Cima Avert’s summit, with a great panorama on the Giants surrounding Coca lake . From Forcellino go downhill a gully landslide then go up until Val Foga’s head, through perennial snow, a sort of semicircle (trail and tracks) that slip on a tiring broken-stone canal (chains on the right bank). At the end of this barrier you have reached Passo del Simal, beautiful panoramic balcony.
From the refuge go up a few meters to a CAI signpost; from this point leave the main trail leading to Lake of Coca in favor of the Orobie trail (Sentiero delle Orobie) to Rifugio Brunone (‘Low’ variant), signed with N. 330 CAI. This path takes place on the sunny south side of Redorta and in fine weather is very panoramic; With numerous ups and downs and a final flat stretch, you arrive in Val di Foga, near a gutter Enel artifact that resembles a medieval picturesque turret.
From here, nearby a sign CAI, you leave the main path that goes to Rifugio Brunone, taking the trail marked with white paint which branches off to the right and goes wide bends the middle part of the Val di Foga; then, reaching the top, at the limit of the scree, go left with a last diagonal and, after a last series of narrow serpentines, leads to a small hollow, in an almost surreal and beautiful environment, where peeps the mirror of the foggy Lake Avert. The view is remarkable and this little valley is one of the most beautiful spots of the entire Alps nearby Bergamo.
From Passo di Coca go down on the glacier of the Wolf (ghiacciaio del Lupo), and after lowering a bit more, begin a long mid-slope in a semicircle above the central plateau of the hanging glacier pointing to the massive – and central – of the three spurs that descend from the summit ridge and form the wide rocky Eastern wall. Arrived under the high baseline jump which forms the socket (the direct ascent for this point is inadvisable because of its exposure and difficulty), proceed a little further to Bivacco di Corti, then go to the left going up the conoid of Eastern gully (slope about 35 ° -40 °), formed by the convergence of Sperone Baroni and from the sharper and anonymous Western one. Keeping on the left, as soon as possible leave the snow attacking the moderately inclined slab belt (difficult passage), beyond which you reach the wide and detrital starting ledge. Pay attention, especially in periods of thaw, the crevasse that lies between the rocks and the remains of the edge of the hanging glacier; it can be convenient sometimes to walk on the gully above the conoid, taking care, however, to return on the path between rock as it become safer.
From the big ledge go through spur rocks, brittle and sometimes stacked but with very easy ascent (grade I-II) and with many path to choose because of the amplitude of the same spur; so we proceed, taking care not to deviate from the spur line, up to the top, where it shrinks and sharpens more, still getting easy to climb and then you will soon reach the vertex, in a sort of collar (the peak is well visible in the upper right).
You can pass the first hop through a little ledge, then cross to the right – pointing to the overlying carving on the summit ridge – winning with a cute passage a smooth and clear inclined slab, thanks to a horizontal slot for feet (it is possible to circumvent lowering on left and then going for an easy loose rock channel). It touches the edge of the ridge coming from Pizzo Porola and from Cima Lupo, through which it reaches the closest peak (9662 ft), either directly for the sharp and a bit exposed ridge either along a convenient ledge on the east side (Lupo). The landscape, in sunny day, is remarkable, particularly on the nearby Pizzo Scais that from here offers its severe wildside
This is the most direct route to climb the beautiful Cima di Caronno starting from Rifugio Coca; the route, as described, is considered as an ‘alpine’ one and it requires a lot of attention, although not difficult (max grade II) and the most difficult part can be – depending on the season – finding the best point to switch from the glacier to the rocks.